Friday, May 4, 2007

zipper story

a boy's own jacket - zipper sizing and placement


Step 1I generally followed the instructions on Stan's Sewing Supply website. Measure the zipper to fit the garment. Mark the zipper at the top of the garment (M1) and 2.5 cm above M1 (makes M2). Clip the teeth between these two marks. I used a zipper shortening tool (see picture). You could also use toenail clippers.

Step 2Cut the excess zipper at the M2 marks. Sear the ends with a candle flame (much more precise than using a match) to prevent fraying.

Step 3The picture shows the antique brass zipper stops and a pair of flat nosed pliers (I also use them for beading). But before I can attach the zipper stops I need to peel away the remaining "roots" of the teeth I clipped.

Step 4You can see the "roots" have been removed and the zipper stops have been crimped in place just above the top tooth on each side.

Step 5Here is a close up. Just above the zipper stops fold the zipper tape backwards and slightly off to the side of the zipper. Pin and then stitch it in place to secure the folded edge. Now you are ready to attach the zipper.

Step 6I followed Nancie M. Wiseman's The Knitter's Book of Finishing Techniques (p. 100). The zipper is pinned in place. Note that the zipper is closed during this procedure.

Step 7I am basting the zipper in with white thread. There a are few other steps that are outlined here on My Knitting Life. Scroll down to November 17 & 19, 2004.

Full viewLook, the zipper is in place! I took lots of breaks with this detail work because once I became tired the quality of my work really deteriorated.

End viewHere is a close up of the zipper end. I chose a 2-way #5 plastic bottom separating zipper. If I were to do this again, I would chose a coil jacket bottom separating zipper. Since this is a child's jacket there is less need for a 2-way zipper. Also, the lighter weight of a coil zipper would be better for this cotton mix yarn (Rowan Calmer).

Top viewZipper top. The selvage edge is (right side) K1, P1, and (wrong side) P1, K1. This creates a garter edge along side a column of reverse stockinette. (This is a modification from the original pattern.)

HoodRemember my hood troubles? Well, here is a side view of the finished hood. I think it looks fine - I am much happier with this than with my first attempt.

I am not quite finished with this project. I am going to attach a jacquard ribbon to the back of the zipper tape to create a more finished look. My Knitting Life has a picture of this technique here. I'll show you how it looks when I am all done. I am so happy that this jacket is going to be ready for his birthday!

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